In the early days of running the Modern Sewing Co. I worked on my own, simply creating clothes that I wanted to wear each month. It was a simple business model - I had an idea, I’d make it, document it and share it with this community via our newsletters. The whole premise centred on what I wanted to add to my wardrobe that month, and while it was sometimes lonely working on my own it did mean I had an endless source of new handmade clothes!
As the business has grown we now have a small and wonderful team and we have monthly themes and product launches that are planned ahead. So my days of self indulgent sewing are in the past as we try to organise our workflow and add lots of lovely patterns and workshops to the range.
This newsletter features a slightly selfish make - a rare opportunity to sew something for my wardrobe. A small gap arose in the calendar and so I thought it was finally time to use this lovely fabric that had been sitting in my stash for months.
I had tried to track down cotton typewriter fabric for a long time, having identified it as the crisp and lightweight cotton fabric used by some of my favourite designers. Typewriter cotton feels like a slightly heavier poplin, tightly woven, crisp and soft. It has a touch of the ‘technical’ feel and makes me think of high quality Japanese menswear.
I had planned to make a pair of Spring Trousers with no hacks, a straight up version of my favourite trouser pattern. But as the months ticked by with the fabric waiting in a box next to my desk, that idea morphed into something that looked more like a parachute pant.
I personally love the unmodified version of the Spring Trouser due to the semi-elasticated waistband with the full fly, giving an easy fit and smart tailoring in equal measures. This pattern is the most comfortable option in my wardrobe, accommodating a body shape that seems to change daily and yet still feeling elegant with long, wide trouser legs. But I also love to mix my designs up and create hacks, helping us all to get more life out of one pattern.
This hack variation has three very simple additions.
Firstly, the side patch pockets which were drafted with a ruler and chalk directly on to the fabric. You can add them after you’ve overlocked and topstitched your side seams.
Secondly, I added some elastic into the hem channel to create the parachute affect.
And lastly I used brass snaps instead of buttons on the waistband.
These three small details drastically alter the look and feel of the trousers and I have enjoyed wearing them a huge amount already.
Useful Measurements:
Here are some of the measurements from this garment to help you create your own pair. It’s worth mentioning I’m 5’10” so bare that in mind with the pocket position and finished length.
- Top of waistband to the top of the pocket flap: 46cm
- Finished pocket flap: 16cm x 6cm (cut 18cm x 8cm)
- Finished pocket: 17cm high x 15cm wide (cut 22cm x 17cm)
- Finished length: 110cm
- Finished elastic circumference: 30cm
I hope this has been an enjoyable read and perhaps one or two of you will end up creating your Spring ‘Parachute’ Pants - a brilliant piece to sew and wear as the weather starts to get warmer.
Hetty
Gallery
If you'd like to learn how to sew your own Spring Trousers they are included in the Art of Trouser Making online workshop.
