Creating your own patch pocket design is very straightforward and it’s a great way to add your own character to your garments. If you’re interested in the idea, it’s worth spending some time sketching up ideas and perhaps mocking up a draft or two in some scrap fabric.

Firstly, I recommend thinking about your fabric and the kind of pocket design that would suit it. I probably wouldn’t put a bellow pocket on a linen piece but a small jet pocket or curved patch pocket would work beautifully. Equally, a waxed cotton piece would be a headache with a jet pocket but a bellow pocket would suit it perfectly. The character of the garment and stability of the fabric will help you to narrow down the pocket size and design.

Secondly I recommend think about what you’d like to use the pocket for - is it your phone, keys, dog lead or to keep your hands warm? Each one will suit a different shape and size and function is so important to make long lasting, well-loved pieces - so consider its use carefully. You might even develop a shape of patch pocket that becomes your signature and you can use it across multiple garments.

Below is a guide for how to create your own patch pocket design, whether it’s asymmetrical or symmetrical.

1. Draw your chosen shape on to a piece of paper. The shape will be the outside line of the pocket when it’s finished.

2. Then, draw a 1cm line around the outside of the pocket, excluding the entrance to the pocket.

3. Now draw 2 lines from the entrance of the pocket, the first 2cm from the edge and the second 4cm from the edge. This will give you a 2cm double turn on the entrance to the pocket.

4. Cut along the outer line of the pocket entrance.

5. Now fold the pocket entrance as you would to sew it. Fold at the 2cm line and then fold at the pocket line. You should have a double fold.

6. Keeping the double fold in place, cut around the pocket ensuring the 1cm seam allowance remains.

7. This is your pocket shape finished - cut in fabric!

8. Press your fabric into place as shown, starting with the entrance to the fold and then the 1cm seam allowance.

1. Fold the paper in half lengthways - this will be your grain line. To mark the pocket entrance, draw 3 lines at the top of the page, 2cm apart from each other. Then, draw half of your pocket shape - you can use dotted lines to help get a smooth curve.

2. Fold the pocket entrance as you would to sew it. Fold at the 2cm line and then fold at the pocket line. You should have a double fold. Then fold the paper in half down the previously folded line. Draw a dotted line 1cm away from the previous line to add your seam allowance. Don’t worry too much about precision, you can even it out in the next step.

3. Cut around the outside edge of the seam allowance and then open up the shape. If you want to alter the shape a bit, re-fold in half and carefully cut to smooth out. This is now your pocket pattern.

4. Cut the pocket out in your fabric and press as shown, starting with the entrance to the fold and then the 1cm seam allowance.

The finished pockets after pressing and ready to be attached!