Perhaps you've already heard the recent shocking headlines about toxic chemicals in Shein clothing. If you've ever felt a sense of disquiet about the dubious practices behind mass-produced, disposable high street garments, please do read on to learn why these latest reports have reinforced why we champion home sewing vs fast fashion.
The Dangers of Fast Fashion
As we were doing some research here in the studio, we stumbled upon a report by Greenpeace Germany into ultra-low cost Shein clothing. It found that 18 of 56 garments (32%) tested contained hazardous chemicals exceeding legal limits, including children's clothing. Alongside phthalates (plastic softeners) and formaldehyde, the report detected so-called 'forever chemicals' PFAS, chemicals that don't break down in the body and have been linked to health conditions including cancers and reproductive disorders, even at low, repeated exposure.
Even with everything Hetty has shared about global supply chains, learnt when building her first sustainable clothing business, Henri, we were still horrified by the dangerous reality behind ultra-cheap garments sold by Shein and similar.
Hetty visiting cotton fields and meeting farmers on a research trip to India.
We've written before about the environmental impact of fast fashion, but this report made us realise we haven't touched on it in regards to our bodies, not just the planet. It's so worrying that people buying fast fashion have no idea of the health risks of the clothes they, and their loved ones, are wearing. These chemicals simply aren't meant to be in direct contact with our skin but can be absorbed through sweat or inhaled fibres. The risks aren't confined to the end consumer, either. Throughout the whole manufacturing process, workers are exposed without any recourse.
Sourcing Fabrics With Confidence
After learning more about the forever chemicals in Shein and fellow fast fashion giants' clothing, it felt only natural to compare and contrast with the fabrics in our own stash here in The Modern Sewing Co. studio. Hetty still has some of the beautiful organic cotton she sourced in India (you can take a look at the production process here) and treasures it even more because she knows exactly how and who it was made by.
Recently, a member of our community, Allan Brown aka @hedgerow.couture shared this amazing pair of hacked Worker Trousers (above), made from a combination of wool and handspun, naturally dyed yarns from raw fleece. Admittedly, this level of dedication isn't achievable for everyone but we loved them so much we had to share!
A beautiful wall of hand printed Indian cotton, sourced directly by The Cloth House, at their London studio.
So, if you're looking to find fabric that's both kind to your skin and the planet, a good place to start is finding a reputable fabric supplier. Good fabric shops will clearly label the provenance of their fabrics and you can often find a statement about their ethics and approach to fabric sourcing on their website. If in doubt, reach out and ask - they're usually very passionate when detailing their stock. As we're based in London, we love visiting Cloth House in Camden and Ray Stitch in Islington, both of whom are very clear about their sourcing and manufacturing processes. We'd also recommend a day trip to Rye to visit Merchant & Mills, too.
Just some of the beautiful fabric that Ray Stitch stocks, with lots of questions asked during a conscientious sourcing process.
Deadstock fabric can also be an option for finding organic and or sustainable fabrics, especially those from higher end brands. This fabric is often very high quality surplus, or features minor imperfections/misprints that don't fit standards of designer brands and so would otherwise go to waste. Some great options for sourcing deadstock are The Fabric House, The New Craft House (which we're pleased to hear appears to be the first fabric shop to become accredited as a B Corp) and the charity fundraiser, Destash4Palestine.
Home Sewing vs Fast Fashion
With each report, news story or podcast about the damaging impact of fast fashion, I'm increasingly confident that home sewing has an important role to play. Shopping at Shein and similar online giants gives consumers zero control: not over how the garment will fit, how it's manufactured (and by who), and potential dangers to our health.
Midway through sewing the new Isabel Dress pattern here in the studio.
In contrast, when we sew our own clothes, we can actively engage with and pay attention to every single part of the process. There's such peace of mind (and enjoyment!) to be found in choosing a pattern from an independent pattern business, spending time sourcing fabric from an ethically minded supplier who knows and can pinpoint the very hands that made it, and turning it into a beautifully made, timeless garment for ourself or someone we love. We don’t have to just put up with feeling uncomfortable about buying clothes on the high street - we can pick up a needle and thread instead.
PS: some of this research has fed into a new online sewing course we've been building here in the studio. More on that soon…