Jet Pocket - Step by Step Guide

Have a read and then practise a couple of times with some scrap fabric.

 

Jet Pocket pieces: 14cm x 2cm - cut 2 in self and fuse

Pocket Loop (optional): 2.5cm x 10 cm - cut 1 in self

Pocket Bag: 14cm x 34cm - cut 1 in self

 

Press the loop in on itself into 4 equal parts and secure with a line of stitching 1mm from the edge

Press the jet pieces in half lengthways. I overlocked mine but this isn't 100% necessary at this stage. It's important to mark the corners of the pocket position using a sharp pencil. The red dots show the pocket position markings which are placed directly in the middle of the welt (0.5cm from each side) and 1.5cm from each end.

Chalk the pocket position on your garment on the RIGHT SIDE. The 4 red dots form a box which is 11cm x 1cm. Use a ruler to draw a line down the middle of the dots and then angle up into each corner as shown.

Use a pin to position the jets into place. Pin through the dots on the jet pieces and then look under the jet to match it with the corresponding dot.

Pin into place as shown.

Repeat the process with the second jet piece. The raw/overlocked edges should be lined up snug against each other.

Stitch a very straight line between your 2 dots starting and ending EXACTLY on the dots.

Then sew your second row of stitching (thread still attached to show exactly where the stitching begins and ends).

The view from underneath - the stitch lines should be perfectly parallel and begin and finish exactly in line with each other. If they are slightly skewed take the time to re-do them. This is important to get a neatly finished pocket.

As I was doing this demo I forgot the little loop! But I think it's actually easier to insert this after sewing the initial pockets down. You do have to do some unpicking but you can line up your pockets perfectly without distraction first.

I unpicked some of the stitching in the middle of the top jet stitch line (look closely and you can see the unpicking on the right hand stitch line).

I then inserted the loop where I wanted it. You can choose the length of the loop you want at this stage.

Stitch it down and then snip the excess off.

Then start to cut down the middle line you marked.

Using small scissors very carefully snip right into the corners. You need to snip right up to the stitching but not past it. Precision is key here.

Turn one side of the jet through and press, and then follow with the other.

You will now have both sides turned the right way but with the end triangles flapping free.

Fold back the fabric to expose the edge of the jet and flip the little triangle out to sit flat on top of the jets. Take your time to make sure the pocket is sitting in line and then stitch the little triangle down. You need to get the stitching right next to the fold as shown. Use pins to help keep the pocket opening together if you need.

Next lay your pocket back RIGHT SIDE DOWN on the inside of the pocket as shown.

Line up the edge of the pocket bag with the edge of the pocket. Pin from underneath.

Turn the whole piece over to stitch it from underneath as shown. Then immediately overlock this edge - make sure you don't accidentally sew past the seam allowance and into the garment!

Now fold the pocket up to the top edge and repeat this exact process.

To finish the pocket bags lay the whole pocket area flat and make sure everything is sitting straight. Then fold back the front as shown and stitch down the side of the pocket. Then immediately overlock. Repeat this process for the other side.

 

You pocket should now look like this from the inside and outside - carefully press for a crisp finish!