It has been a busy few weeks in the studio and I've been working on something big behind the scenes (which I’ll be ready to share more about next week). This work has required quite intensive time infront of the screen so it has been a welcome break to take some time away to sew some new pieces.

If you’ve been subscribed for the last couple of months you’ll know that I’m slowly building my own capsule summer collection, from back to front. In my own small way I’m reversing the usual rhythm of the fashion industry which usually presents customers with a fully formed collection ready for consumption.

Instead, I shared my mood board of sketches at the very start and each week or two I’ve been adding to the range and sharing the process of making it. I’m looking forward to finishing this mini collection and reflecting on it as it has been an interesting journey. If you missed the introduction email to this project you can catch up here - 'How to Plan a Summer Capsule'.

I had initially planned to make 5 pieces with a big ‘maybe’ hanging over a pair of jeans. After I finished the simple white Cara Top (pictured below) I couldn’t move on to the final piece of the range - a punchy Potters Jacket - without adding a pair of denim worker trousers.

I think these two pieces together creates the most satisfying outfit. It’s quiet, understated design that’s just right. Nothing more, nothing less. Which is what I’m always trying to achieve with the garments I make.

I hope this newsletter is interesting and useful and as always you’ll be able to refer back to it via the blog.

Hetty

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Cut: Worker Trousers

Size: 10 (I’m a UK size 10/S and I’m 5ft 10)

- I added a front pin tuck down the centre front legs

- Small hem panel on the front leg

- Decorative topstitching on the back pockets

- Hardware on the front and back pockets

This is the second pair of workers I’ve made with a pin-tuck. It’s a really nice feature and very easy to do. Simply fold the front leg pattern in half down the grain line at the point where you want to add the pin-tuck. Cut the pattern open at this point and stick one side down on to a long piece of scrap paper. Draw a 1cm line up the edge of the cut and then stick the other side of the leg down along that 1cm line. You will have opened up the pattern by a total of 1cm.

When you come to sew it, fold the fabric pieces of the leg down the same line and stitch a 0.5cm line along the fold.

I did a bit of free styling on the pocket top-stitching for a bit of extra detail.

Amazingly this is the first time I’ve used rivets on a pair of trousers. I used 9mm Prym rivets (you can buy these from lots of different places) and I added them to the corners of the front and back pockets. The use of hardware on jeans stems from the need to make very strong and durable working garments so they serve a functional purpose and will really strengthen the pocket openings which get a lot of wear and tear.

I had a hem panel in mind when I was imagining these trousers. I think the panel breaks up the front a bit and gives it a slightly more worker wear twist.

I used a topstitch weight thread for this make in a shade of warm beige. Anywhere that required a line of topstitching I added double, usually about 7mm apart.

It wouldn’t be a Modern Sewing Co. pair of trousers without an epic finishing around the fly. I chose the zip option on this pair as I only had 1 metal button left so that made my decision for me.