Introducing: The Jaime Jacket

I'm very excited to be able to introduce the Jaime Jacket! This is our newest addition to the PDF pattern range and the second menswear piece.

I made the first iteration of this jacket earlier this year as a gift. I wanted to make a garment that had a more substantial feel than the Unisex Shirt and looked more modern and minimal too. Looking at the outcome it seems to be a menswear version of an Over Shirt/Potters Jacket hybrid... which I don't think is a bad place to be.

After finishing my first version I spent months pondering about what I'd change for the next version. I was really happy with the outcome but there was something that slightly bugged me. I think in hindsight the original front pockets were slightly overcomplicated which distracts the eye - see below to agree or disagree...

I knew that if I was going to release this design as a pattern I would need to wear it for a while first. You can't get to know a cut without seeing how you feel in it.

I decided that I actually really enjoyed wearing the jacket. There's something very simple and carefree about wearing men's clothing and although a lot of my patterns have an oversized feel, the subtle proportion changes for menswear feel like a novelty.

It confirmed in my mind that what I needed to change was the front details so I went back to pattern and made a couple of small tweaks, simplifying the front pocket design.

I was really happy with the next two versions (the blue corduroy and grey denim in this email). I should mention that before all of these samples I had already made a few rounds of toiles to get the fit right.

I've made 3 jackets to date and I haven't managed to keep hold of any of them. I wanted to do a launch offer with the Unisex Shirt and Jaime Jacket styled together but I don't have a Jaime Jacket to my name, they seem to be hard to keep hold of and the demand list keeps growing!

So instead of offering them as a 'set' (i.e. with photos of the pieces together) you can get the Unisex Shirt for half price when you buy the Jaime Jacket pattern (details below).

I had some very beautiful photos from my pattern testers so I'm REALLY excited to see this out in the wild. With each pattern I write I feel more confident with my ability to communicate the instructions so I think this is an achievable garment for any intermediate maker OR a very ambitious beginner on a mission... yes I see you. 

Feedback is so much appreciated as always and I hope you like it!

Hetty

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Gallery

The Jaime Jacket is a simple cut with a relatively snug fit, making it feel more like an over shirt than a heavy outerwear garment. The shoulders are neat and the torso is squared from the armhole down. The two-piece sleeve helps to give gentle shaping down the arm to achieve a slim fit.

We recommend sizing up if you'd like to layer thick jumpers under your jacket or if your fabric is very tough and inflexible.

Photographed are 2 pieces, one in corduroy and one in a 12oz Japanese denim. Both pieces are made in a size Large but they hang slightly differently on the model. The corduroy gives a very relaxed fit whereas the denim is a tiny bit tighter and will soften with wear.

The collar is a single piece that sits folded back on itself, formed without a collar stand. This makes for an easier making process and simplified look. It is formed of a Top Collar which is fused and an Under Collar which is slightly smaller. This helps to roll the seam to the under side to achieve a professional finish.

The back is where the magic happens on this piece. It features a curved yoke that flows straight into the under sleeve seam which turns into a slit opening at the cuff. This flowing seam travels from cuff to cuff with a wide run & fell seam.

The smooth nature of the curve and the continuous flow is a feature that makes this piece extra satisfying to make and I think it sets it apart from other jacket designs.

This piece uses a 2cm/1cm run & fell seam instead of my usual 1.5cm/0.7cm. I enjoy the visual look of the wider seam but it's also important in making the construction of the cuff slit easier.

The cuff is very narrow with a triangular tab to accommodate the button. It's a small and simple element to the jacket, designed to balance out with the other features.

The two-piece sleeve comes with 3 different length options so you'll be able to opt for a length that suits you.

The two-way patch pockets... the pièce de résistance!

This is such a fun part of the jacket to construct and it's surprisingly easy. But more importantly it makes the piece so much nicer to wear with the comfy side pocket entrance for your hands and useful top entrance for your bits and bobs.

The back neck loop is framed by the collar and the facing stitching and creates an eye catching yet subtle twist to the back of the garment.

However it's not just for show! It helps to hang the jacket to drape more naturally instead of pulling up from inside the neck. This should help to keep it in better condition for longer and reduce the need for ironing.

It's also a feature that works really beautifully with a contrast colour for the Under Collar piece. Below it really pops against the yellow which is an easy way to liven up your piece garment!

And yes it is suitable for all genders! It's a very straight cut which is more of a menswear silhouette which can sometimes be restrictive for the female shape. Anyone with a curvy waist/hip may want to add some width at the side seams however I prefer to size up to give it an oversized feel.