Fabrics for Autumn

 
Hello September.
 
Good to see you. Welcome to the weekend long read.
 
It's finally time for cosy jumpers, closed shoes and full length trousers. Horray! 
 
With the change of seasons comes new possibilities when it comes to pairing patterns with fabrics so I thought I'd share my ideas for what would work well together.
 
I've also just updated the blog with recent newsletters that I hadn't got around to posting. I'll be keeping these up to date after the summer blip!
 
I also have to say beware as this email is quite text heavy but hopefully useful to refer to. To balance out all of the text I've added a photo journal at the end to bring some colour to your Sunday morning.
 
 

Fabric & Pattern Pairings for Autumn

Here is a list of fabrics that are perfect for autumnal weather and some pattern ideas to pair with them. You can click the link under each one if you wanted to directly browse the patterns related to a certain fabric.

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Waxed cotton/oilskin

Nothing says 'autumn' like a waxed cotton does. I love sewing light weight jackets with this fabric. A few things to consider are: 

- it probably won't be completely waterproof, more like slightly water resistant. But it's great for a light shower and it also helps shield from the wind

- If your waxed cotton is slightly oily or wet to the touch then you'll need to add a lining.

- Some waxed cottons you can iron and some you can't. Try to find out from your supplier but you can also do a test on some scrap. Always use a cloth between the iron and the fabric and select a low heat setting.

Shop Patterns for Waxed Cotton: Potters Jacket, Over Shirt or even an oversized Unisex Shirt to wear as a light jacket.

 

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Quilting

I have yet to sew with any sort of quilted fabric but I do have some in my stash so maybe this will be the year for it. I think it would be gorgeous to have a quilted Potters Jacket or Over Shirt (you could potentially leave out the collar and just add the collar stand on its own) or even a quilted Cara Top for layering with.

Shop Patterns for Quilting: Potters Jacket, Over Shirt & Cara Top

 

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Brushed denim

Brushed denim is what dreams are made of. Nearly all of our patterns would work in this lovely fabric.

Shop Patterns for Brushed Denim: 

Unisex Shirt, Over Shirt, Classic Shirt, Frida Shirt, Celia Dress, Spring Trousers - and if it’s a sturdy one you could also make the Daphne Trousers and Worker Trousers.

 

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Classic denim

By classic I'm picturing a beautiful mid/heavy weight in an incredible shade of blue. I've always pictured a heavier denim Celia Dress for cooler months and of course the usual Workers and Daphnes are absolute wardrobe staples. I'd also love to see a heavy denim Potters Jacket, perhaps unlined and with binding around the inside facing...

Shop Patterns for Denim: Celia Dress, Worker Trousers, Daphne Trousers, Over Shirt, Potters Jacket

 

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Gingham

I don't have a great deal of gingham in my wardrobe but again, maybe this is the year for it. You can play with the direction of the grain potentially do details such as patch pockets and plackets on the bias to get a nice contrast in the design. Just be careful to pattern match where you can to avoid seams with a clashing pattern placement.

Shop Patterns for Gingham: Celia Dress, Spring Trousers, Classic Shirt, Frida Shirt, Over Shirt

 

 

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Corduroy & Needlecord

I'm on the hunt for heavenly cords this season. Corduroy is your classic chunky cord and needlecord is much finer and works beautifully for shirts and dresses. This is high on the agenda for me this autumn.

Patterns for Corduroy: Over Shirt, Worker Trousers, Daphne Trousers, Spring Trousers, Potters Jacket

 

Patterns for Needlecord: Over Shirt, Spring Trousers, Unisex Shirt, Classic Shirt, Celia Dress, Frida Shirt

 

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Wool suiting

I haven't worked with wool suiting before and I'm looking forward to starting. This fabric needs a pattern with drape and a feeling of elegance. You can find some beautiful colours of wool suiting which is why I mention it here - think more of a modern rethinking of a traditional fabric.

Shop Patterns for Wool Suiting: 

Spring Trousers, Celia Dress, Unisex Shirt, Over Shirt

 

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Light wool felt

This one is maybe for later in the winter but it gets a little mention here. I've seen a number of lovely Over Shirts in wool felts and they look so useful and robust.

Shop Patterns for Light Wool Felt:

Over Shirt, Potters Jacket

 

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Heavy Brushed twill

I can't leave without mentioning brushed twill, what a beautiful fabric when you get a high quality one (I know Merchant & Mills do the absolute best heavy brushed twills). I've (rather surprisingly) made a pair of Spring Trousers in this fabric and they're so dramatic and cosy to wear. 

Shop Patterns for Heavy Brushed Twill:

Worker Trousers, Daphne Trousers, Spring Trousers, Over Shirt, Potters Jacket

 

A photo journal of the past month.
 
And now for a splash of colour! I've been getting to know my film camera and I'm loving the process. Here are a few snaps from the last month...
 
 
August included a pattern launch, a house move, two festivals and a trip to Paris. Taking a breather on the balcony in the new Rib Sweater.
 
 
Step 1 of sewing a welt pocket. This is a feature of the up and coming jumpsuit pattern.
 
 
Studio self portrait in the Over Shirt. This is one of the first shirts I ever designed and it's stood the test of 6 years and counting.
 
 
My favourite object in the world.
 
 
It finally rained.
 
 
Studio self portrait part 2. Wearing my favourite earrings by Karina Banks.
 
 
Vintage button cards sitting in a spot of sun on the window sill.
 
 
Test wearing the jumpsuit in Paris (a short sleeved version).
 
 
Quick coffee break (with extra froth)
 
 
Getting cosy in the Rib Sweater, our newest pattern.
 
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Here are a few of my recommendations for fabric in London:
 
East:
Woolcrest (deadstock warehouse, cash only)
New Craft House (designer deadstock)
Crescent Trading (cash only, good for wool)
William Gee (for threads and good quality fusing)
North:
Raystitch (lovely curated range of fabrics, some sustainable ones too)
Empee Silks (big warehouse, potentially cash only)
Central:
MacCulloch and Wallis (good for fabrics, buttons and threads)
Berwick St - lots of shop down here, mostly on the expensive side
West:
Lots of fabric shops along Goldhawk Road, good for cheap fabric
Online:
Merchant & Mills (lovely curated range, worth a trip to Rye for)
Organic Cotton Biz (based in Wales, great for sustainable fabrics)
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