The Leila Shirt

Deep dive into a community favourite

The Leila Shirt is one of our first patterns, I designed it around 7 years ago, and yet it still has a lightness and playfulness that still feels fresh today. It's not something I make very often so it's been so nice to revisit the pattern.
 
I designed the Leila Shirt to be really oversized with a lot of drape that falls off the body. It was intended to work with a sheer fabric - which is really beautiful - but I was recently inspired by a shirt a customer made in white poplin. While I love making more fitted pieces like the Classic and Unisex shirts, I was really looking to make something with a lot of extra volume in the summer. And with a poplin, holding volume was guaranteed. 

I knew I wanted to make topstitching a really big detail in this garment. I spent a while thinking about thread colour.
My favourite options were navy thread with navy buttons, or green thread and cream buttons.
 
I find that using a contrast thread makes a piece look so much more considered and it's such an easy way to make a simple fabric really sing. Button choice always comes into that decision, especially with a white poplin - so I would always choose your trimmings before you start sewing as it really helps to form the character of the piece, making everything more intentional.

I made the shirt with no alterations in a size 10 and I added lots of topstitching to really draw attention to the green thread. I added topstitching in the following places:

• around the full edge of the cuff
• a double line at the top of the cuff
• a double line around the inside neck facing
• topstitched the side seams and shoulder seams
• added two lines of topstitching to the back seam just above the gathers
• a very fine line on top of the hem about 1mm from the edge

I particularly love how a contrast thread makes the button holes pop, making it its own mini design feature in a really playful way.

The extra long and thin sleeve placket not only makes the shirt look elegant but it allows you to roll the sleeves up really high, making it really comfy in the summer heat but also great to get down to your sewing or handiwork.
 
Another sweat-busting feature is the deep arm holes which keeps the fabric flowing and away from your body so you don't feel restricted or tight under your arms.

I've loved wearing this piece and how it falls on the body. The poplin is cool and breezy to wear, and it's already a well loved piece in my wardrobe. I even wore it to film something special that will be coming this autumn (exciting!). It's become the perfect filming shirt, especially when the studio heats up with the windows closed to prevent the footage picking up the dulcet tones of East London. 
 

If you make your own Leila Shirt, I would love to see it! Poplin, sheer, or any flowing fabric works well to complement the shape and movement of the garment. Hope you enjoy!
 
Hetty x
 More information about our upcoming workshop and pattern coming very soon...