Our trench coat has been made using gabardine, a traditional cloth used for this style. Similar to a twill, it has a tight weave which helps to make the fabric more weatherproof.

We purchased this fabric online from ecologicaltextiles.com

We decided to really make a feature of the new hack pieces and use a contrast gabardine fabric for the following pattern pieces: A,B,H,6,7,8,15,17

This is completely optional of course, just a fun way to add more colour to your garment.

If you're unable to get your hands on gabardine, a mid weight cotton twill will work just as well.

Another great fabric choice would be a waxed cotton. This fabric will have a bit more structure and hold, so keep that in mind if you're incorporating the new storm flaps. We think this would make a wonderfully striking raincoat.

A warmer option would be wool. The Darcy has always worked well in a wool and the Trench version of the Darcy will be no different!

Don't forget your lining. Although it's not completely visible from the outside, you will see your lining as you're taking your coat on and off, so make sure it's a colour that compliments the self fabric. We used a classic polyester lining.

The trench hack has a few new pattern pieces to transform it into a beautiful Trench Coat. 

You have access to the trench lay plan and pattern pieces, simply log into your account and you will find your files under 'My Patterns' or click the button below to download.

Although the Darcy Coat has been designed to have an oversized and roomy fit, you may find the following adjustments helpful for this project.

-Full Bust Adjustment With a Dart

-Narrow Shoulder Adjustment

-Wide Shoulder Adjustment

We've incorporated a back vent, common in most trench coats. This means instead of cutting your back piece on the fold, it is now two separate pieces, same for the lining. We will talk you through the construction of these pieces further down this page.

Perhaps the most striking new feature are the storm flaps on the front and back. This really transforms the coat into a trench. Traditionally this is a protective layer to shield the wearer from rain, we also added an inverted box pleat in the back storm flap for added volume and a nice little design feature.

Another classic design feature of a trench coat is the shoulder epaulettes. These originated from military wear, and although they don't have a function in modern wear they remain a beautiful detail of the classic trench.

The belt loops on our Darcy trench are slightly wider than the original pattern. Although this is a small detail, we found it has a large impact on the overall finish of the coat. The placement has moved forward to just above the pockets and a third belt loop is located at the centre back.

Well, we just had to include our ever loved gusset pocket. Roomy and functional, we found this was the perfect pocket to complete our trench. 

We include step-by-step photo guidance on this page showing you how to sew your own gusset pocket. If you would prefer welt pockets as used in the original pattern, our Darcy Coat Workshop includes full guidance in the chapter 1 video. To access this simply log into your account and you'll find the Darcy workshop under 'My Workshops'. Please note the front storm flap will cover the chest welt pocket so we suggest only sewing the lower welt pockets.

This is your step-by-step guide for sewing a gusset pocket. This pocket design can be used with any fabric to give a more casual look than the welt pocket. It's also a more beginner friendly option than the welt pocket.

To start you will need your pocket flap pieces. One of your pieces should be fused. For a nice bit of contrasting texture, the underside of our pocket flap is made with a beautiful corduroy, in a very similar plum colour to the waxed cotton fabric. We have left this piece unfused and the waxed cotton piece is fused.

Lay these pieces RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and stitch around the outer curved edge at 0.5cm.

Trim round the curved edges, this will make it easier when turning the flap out the right way.

Once you've turned the flap the right way out, carefully press it nice and flat. Try to make sure the top flap slightly rolls over the seam, to give a more professional finish.

Trim away any excess at the top to ensure the layers sit flush.

Next, stitch across this opening at 0.5cm.

Topstitch around the curved edges at 1cm

Next, we are going to prepare the gusset pieces by hemming the outside edge. Fold in the edge by 0.5cm and again by 0.5cm and stitch down.

Pin together the gusset piece and pocket piece RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Match top of the gusset with the top notches on the pocket and pin all the way around.

Continue to match the notches all the way round the pocket.

To help create some ease round the curve, clip into the gusset piece to help when sewing.

Stitch with a 0.5cm seam allowance.

Press the stitched gusset seam back on itself to form a french seam. Stitch around again at 0.5cm. The seam will be on the outside/right side of the pocket.

Next, fold the top op the pocket by 2cm, and then again by 2cm to form a double fold.

When forming the double fold make sure the gusset piece is folded neatly on itself, so the hem edge is meeting the edge of the pocket.

Edgestitch into place at 1mm from the edge (or as close as you can get with a neat line of stitching).

Next line up the pocket with the chalked pocket positions on your Front Coat piece. Pin the hemmed gusset edge carefully in a curve.

Peel the top of the pocket back and stitch around the hem at 1mm from the edge. You won’t get your machine foot into the edges at the top but just get as close as you can.

At the top of the pocket you can do a bar tack in each corner to secure in place. This will finish the pocket and close the section that you weren’t able to sew down.

Finally attach the flap, matching the pocket positions chalked on the front pieces.

Fold the flap down and topstitch at 0.5cm from the edge. You now have a finished gusset pocket!

Take your Front Storm Flap (A) and pin the corresponding self and lining pieces RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Starting along the bottom edge sew with a 1cm seam allowance. When you reach the corner, lift the sewing foot and pivot the fabric to continue sewing up the front edge.

Let your stitching end at the slanted point with a back stitch.

Mitre the corner you've just sewn, ready to turn out. 

Turn through the front storm flap, making sure the corner is pointed out neatly. Use a sharp tool to help you achieve a crisp corner.

Give this a good press. Repeat steps 2 to 6 for the other side.

To finish your storm flaps, add topstitching round the finished edges you've just sewn. First sew a line of stitching 0.1cm from the edge and then a second line of stitching around 0.7cm from the edge.

You will have 1 Back Storm Flap (B) cut in Self and 1 cut in lining fabric. Pin these RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and sew along the bottom straight edge at 1cm.

Flip the Back Storm Shield out the right way and press the seam you've just sewn.

Next, pin the lining to the self fabric to ensure it stays in place. Your fabric will be facing WRONG SIDES TOGETHER with the finished edge at the bottom.

With a long stitch length, sew around the outer edge with a 0.5cm to hold the lining in place.

Next we are going to sew the box pleat. Fold the storm flap in half with the lining side on top. This will mean your self fabric is facing RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. The notches on the neck line should be lined up ready for the next step.

Make sure you have your stitch end point marked on your lining. You can chalk this from your pattern piece now if you haven't already (this is a small red dot in this image). Starting at the matching notches at the neckline, sew a straight line down to the marked point.

Lay the storm flap out flat with the lining side facing up. You can now gently press the box pleat flat, ensuring the centre back seam notch is directly. in the middle of the neckline.

Gently press the box pleat flat. If using a lightweight lining like ours we strongly recommend using a pressing cloth or some scrap fabric to protect the iron from the fabric.

Continue pressing evenly all the way down the box pleat. You might find it easier to press the pleat from the bottom and meet in the middle to ensure the pleat is even.

Turn the storm flap over so you now have the right side facing up and press the pleat form this side. Top tip: use a piece of cardboard and slide it inbetween the pleat and the top layer to avoid any harsh lines appearing from the layers below as you press.

To finish sew a stay stitch on the neckline at 5mm to hold the box pleat in place.

Finally, topstitch across the bottom edge. First sew a line of stitching 0.1cm from the edge and then a second line of stitching around 0.7cm from the edge.

With your two Back Bodice pieces (C) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, pin down the centre back up to the top of the vent like so.

Sew down the centre back seam with a 1cm seam allowance.

Stop your stitching at 1cm away from the top of the vent.

Snip into the the vent corner on the top layer only.

This will release this corner, so you will be able to press the vent in the next step.

On the ironing board, press the centre back seam.

When you get to the vent, gently fold it down and press. You'll find it naturally folds where you've made the little snip.

With your front bodice piece laying RIGHT SIDE UP, lay the front storm shield RIGHT SIDE UP and pin the shoulder and arm seams.

Sew round these outer edges with a 1cm seam allowance.

Lay your back piece RIGHT SIDE UP and your Back Storm Flap RIGHT SIDE UP. Pin round the outer edges: Shoulder, neckline and armhole.

Sew round with a 1cm seam allowance starting at the underarm.

Stitch the whole way round the back storm shield, up to the shoulder and over the neckline. Make sure your centre back notches are matching as you sew past this point, ensuring the whole piece is sitting evenly. Continue sewing to the underarm on the other side.

Continue sewing to the underarm on the other side.

With RIGHT SIDES FACING pin the front and back pieces together by aligning the shoulder seams and the side seams.

When pinning, you will find it helpful to pin the corners of each area first and then pin the middle to ensure the fabric is distributed evenly. For example, here we are pinning the corners of the shoulder first, ensuring the front and back pieces match neatly, and then we will pin the middle.

Make sure to match the notches of the side seams as you pin.

With a 1cm seam allowance, sew the side seams and shoulder seams.

Press the seams open and flat. Remeber you have an extra layer of the storm flap by the arm hole so pay extra attention here with a good amount of steam to make sure the seam is pressed nice and crisp and isn't bouncing back.

Similarly the shoulders will need a good amount of steam too. Use the weight of your iron to achieve a nice crisp finish.

The following steps are the same for your belt loops (I) and Epaulette Tabs (J). Note that these Belt Loops are a slightly larger size than the original Darcy pattern.

With the RIGHT SIDE facing down, press in each long edge by 1cm.

Next press the loop/tab in half and press.

Do the same for all 3 belt loops.

Use the same process to press your two epaulette tabs. We also used the epaulette tabs as sleeve tabs, but this is an optional design feature. In total we used 6 epaulette tabs.

Topstitch on both sides of the loops/ tabs, around 1mm from the edge.

You can see here we topstitch our loops/ tabs in one go, rather than cutting the threads and sewing each separately.

Press in 1cm on each short end. We placed one belt loop above each of our gusset pockets and one at the centre back seam as shown here.

Pin your loops in position. Take your time to make sure these are at the same height at the front of the coat as they are at the back.

Sew the belt loops with a 1mm seam allowance. This will match the topstitching you did earlier.

Make sure the raw edges are tucked in underneath the loop and not sticking out. Use small snips or another sharp tool to help you push them under if you need.

Mark your position for the Epaulette Tabs (J) on the shoulders, using the markings as found on the pattern piece. This will overlap the front and back storm flaps.

These are attached in the same way as the belt loops. After you have topstitched the tab, fold in each short end by 1cm and press. Pin in position and sew using a 1mm seam allowance.

Grab your fused Epaulettes (H) and fold the long edges in by 1cm and press.

Fold the Epaulettes in half and give it another good press.

Next we are going to close the ends. To do this, fold the ends with RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Starting your stitch at the long open end, stitch a point following the shape of the end of the Epaulette with an even 1cm seam allowance. Stitch right up to the fold on the other end with a good forward and backwards stitch. Repeat for the other end too.

Mitre this corner by snipping the seam allowance close to your stitch line. This will help you achieve a crisp point when turning through. Repeat for the other end.

Turn through and use a sharp point to help push out the point of the Epaulette, being careful not to point a hole through your fabric. Repeat on the other end and repeat steps 13-15 for your second Epaulette.

Give both epaulettes a good press.

Starting at the long open edge of the epaulette, stitch using a 1mm seam allowance to close this gap.

Continue this stitch all the way around until you reach your starting point.

Next topstitch another line of stitching 0.7mm away from the edge all the way round. You'll finish with two neat lines of topstitching. Repeat steps 17-19 for the other epaulette.

To attach the Epaulettes to your coat, stitch a buttonhole at each end, using the buttonhole markings on your pattern piece. Your button placement will be directly on top of the shoulder seam. We suggest trying on your coat to check you're happy with the button position.

You can either sew your button and buttonholes now or wait till Step 9 when you can sew all your buttons and buttonholes at the same time.

Here you can see where we have positioned our optional loops on the sleeve. We cut 4 Epaulette Tabs (J) for these and placed them between each buttonhole marking.

Lay your Back Lining pieces (E) & (D) and lay the corresponding fused Back Hem Facing pieces (F) & (G) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.

You are joining the bottom seam of the lining to the top curved edge of the facing. Match the notches to check you’re attaching the facing the correct way up and pin.

Stitch them together at 1cm. Don't forget to leave a small gap on one of the facings so you can bag the coat out later on. Don’t press the seam afterwards.

With your Back Lining pieces (E) & (D) RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER stitch down the centre back seam at 1cm.

Stop your stitch at 1cm above the vent.

Lay the body shell in front of you WRONG SIDE UP with the sides peeled open. Then take your lining body and lay it on top with the RIGHT SIDE UP. Insert the lining shell in the blazer to sit as it would when worn.

Now peel the lining from left to right, folding in half at the centre back seam.

The vent section will now sit side by side like this with the WRONG SIDE of the lining and main shell facing up.

Line up the top of the vent of both your outer and lining fabric.

Pinch the top corner of the main vent, making sure to only hold the top seam allowance, leaving the lower one free. Pinch this together with the top corner of the lining RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Pin into place.

Pin down this edge and when you get to the hem facing let the excess fabric fold down towards the facing to create a pleat. 

Pin the pleat like so.

Stitch down this edge at 1cm.

You are stitching from the bottom hem up to the top of the vent.

Turn the vent right side out and press the seam.

With one side of the lining attached the vent will look like this.

Next, snip into the corner of the lining by 1cm as indicated.

Now pull the raw edge of the lining seam to meet the remaining raw edge of the vent keeping the RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER.

Measure 1cm in from the top and side of the vent corner. The end of the snipped corner of the lining should sit exactly at this point.

Pin the raw edges of the lining and vent together and when you get to the hem facing repeat the process of folding the lining to create the pleat.

Stitch at 1cm.

To help achieve a smooth finish, clip into the hem facing seam allowance where it joins with vent.

This will allow the seam allowance to lay flat. Give this a good press.

Press the vent, avoiding the hem lining pleat and letting it just naturally fold over.

Your pressed vent at this point should look like this. The vent is sewn along both long edges with just the top diagonal section remaining free.

To acess this area, peal the lining back to reveal the diagonal raw edge of the lining and the seam allowance of the top of the vent.

Snip into the corner at the top of the vent to allow the lining to lay flat.

Pin the layers together.

Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance.

Your fully attached vent will now look like this. Give it a good press to finish. (Use a very light heat if you are using a lightweight lining like this one).

Mandy C

Merideth R

Naoko T

Sarah H