The frill collar looks particularly lovely buttoned up and works brilliantly for layering under winter jumpers. And it also works really well unbuttoned (see below).
Frill Coll Instructions:
- Cut a strip of bias fabric, 7cm wide and 86cm long.
- Press it in half and use the longest stitch on the machine to stitch a line about 1cm from the closed raw edges
- Pull the bobbin thread on the stitching to create your gathers. Take this nice and slow to get an even gathered shape. Lay the collar stand in-front of you to measure how much to gather in by
- Now lay the fused collar stand in-front of you right side up. Pin the gathered frill on as you would pin the collar. Turn edge end in at the end curve of the collar stand and once it's pinned check it from the front by turning the frill up.
- Once you're happy with how the frill is pinned then you can sandwich the other side of the collar stand and stitch around as if you're attaching a normal collar. Finish the rest of the process by following your normal collar instructions.
Bias Trim Detail
After I stitched the frill into place I thought the lower side of the collar stand looked too sparse in comparison. I wanted to add an extra trim detail to balance the busyness of the frill.
I cut another length of bias fabric about 2cm wide. I pressed the strip in half and inserted it between the collar stand and the neckline of the body. It's a small detail but one that I think makes a difference.
Cutting on the Bias
Just a note about cutting on the bias - I opted for a bias cut frill as it works really well with this checked weave. You wouldn't need to cut your own frill on the bias unless you wanted to do so for design purposes.
If you wanted to add the lower trim detail you would need to cut this piece on the bias to give it plenty of flexibility in getting around the neckline.
Along with the frill and trim I cut the following pattern pieces on the bias: back yoke, placket and the cuff. This was purely a design choice to go with the weave of the fabric.
I pinned the bias cut pockets on to see if they worked. They didn't... so I left them off.
Shaping the Hem
As I opted for the Unisex Shirt pattern I decided I needed to adjust the length and shape of the hem. The straight fit of the shirt didn't feel well balanced with the frilly collar so I cut it shorted and added a curve to the shape.
I did this slowly, cutting a little bit more each time and checking in between. The final length down the centre front is 62cm (measured from the bottom of the collar).
I think it's important to check the overall balance of a garment and how all the features tie in together. The length of a garment has such a huge impact on how something will feel and this piece was crying out for a shorter length to match the feminine design details.
Sewn By You:
Some beautiful frill collars that inspired me!
@sew.sleep.repeat | Cara Top
@y_craft_shapes | Frida Shirt