Silky Sunday Trackies

The weekend long read.
This is my most recent make and it has been a bitter sweet one…
This is the first piece of my autumn capsule and I was so excited to shake up a pattern that I haven’t used for a year - the Sunday Trackies. I launched this pattern last September and I wanted to revisit it by turning it on it’s head. I envisioned a slinky pair of evening trousers that could be worn with heels or simply with trainers and a sweater during the day.
I wanted them to be slouchy, comfy, silky and stylish. The finished result is nearly all of these things. But what holds it back is that they don't have that effortless skim as they go over my hips.
I had originally designed the Sunday Trackies to be made out of a soft jersey, something cosy with a bit of stretch. Making them in a non-stretch viscose for this pair, I had planned to cut a size or two bigger than usual to allow for extra room when putting them on. I have no idea how I ended up cutting a size 10 (my usual size) - I was obviously on major auto pilot last week.
It’s amazing when you put hours of thought into something, plan a beautiful make and then cut the wrong size. I was so surprised when I had to wriggle to put them on, I haven’t made a sizing mistake in years and years. It goes to show it can happen to everyone so check twice before cutting! Luckily they do fit once they’re over my hips but my flatmate might be the lucky receiver of this pair.
The other reason I found this make tricky was the fabric. I bought what I thought was a viscose fabric but when the iron went near it there was a burning plastic smell and my heart sank - it turns out it’s a poly-viscose blend (which I was NOT told when I bought it). There’s nothing I hate more than making a piece I have to use a pressing cloth with. You can’t get anywhere close to as crisp a finish and it take so much longer having to manoeuvre your garment underneath a protective sheet.
I bought this fabric from a reputable shop in west London so it goes to show you really need to check what you’re buying. If you’re really unsure you should be able to ask for a tiny sample and do the ‘burn test’. Set fire to a tiny bit and if you see any melting or smell toxic fumes then you have a poly blend (best to request a swatch and take it out of the shop for that…!).
I thought it was important to share the failings on this piece because it’s not always seamless, even when it’s what you do for a living. I think this make is a brilliant blue print for a pair of slinky trousers and I’m tempted to go straight to a fabric shop to find something for round two…

Have a read, let me know any thoughts and questions and have a happy Sunday.

Hetty

x

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Hack Details

Cut: Sunday Trackies

Size: I chose a 10 which is true to size for me. If using a non-stretch fabric please use at least one size bigger than your normal size or check the measurement chart.

Adjustments: 

- Added 9cm to the leg lengths

- Made without the additional ankle cuff

- Lots of extra pockets...! Details below.

- Decorative topstitching

Thread Colour

I hadn't actually pictured this garment having decorative contrast stitching but when it came to choosing a thread colour I felt drawn to something light that would 'pop' against the fabric. I decided to opt for a warm beige to give it a slight utility feel (which also happens to match with the brass eyelets).

Playing with Pockets

1. Welt Pockets

I love a welt pocket on the back of trousers and I thought they would go really well on this design.

I shared my welt pattern on a previous hack project but here it is again. This is a free download and you can head to my saved stories on instagram for some informal instructions on how to sew it.

The welt on its own looked a bit out of place so I decided to add topstitching around the pocket bag. This helps to make the whole pocket more sturdy but also turns the construction into a special feature as well. I started with just one line of stitching...

I then added another...

And then because I loved that effect so much I added a little box around the top of the welt. I think this extra topstitching helps the design feature to really sing.

2. Side Pockets

I knew I wanted to add pockets on the sides of the legs for a 'combat' trouser look and so I felt the garment needed front pockets as well to balance out the stitching details. I 'free styled' on the pattern using the patch pocket curve that's included with the pdf. 

This type of patch pocket is applied on top of the trouser leg and the side and top edge of the pocket is enclosed in the seams. I'll be posting an instagram reel on how I made these!

3. Patch Pockets with Flaps

After I sewed the side seams together I added pockets and pocket flaps top the legs. Unfortunately I didn't get better photos (woops) but they are essentially just 2 pockets made using the back patch pocket and with flaps that I free styled the shape for.

Waistband

The waistband is pretty much by the book except I made a drawstring tie from scratch in the same fabric. I also added a line of topstitching 1cm from the top to give it a slight 'paper bag' finish.

In summary...

The story is not over with these... I'm really glad I did this make and I think there's another chapter or two in waiting for slinky Sunday Trackies...!

 

Follow the thread - Continue reading the winter capsule journey

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